Mrs. Bell’s
Doughnut Shop
Daddy worked in Malden Square at
Mrs. Bell's Doughnut Shop. I don't know who Mrs. Bell was. The doughnut shop
was owned by Al, and that’s what I called him. I liked him a lot. He was skinny, and a little
bald, but he had some red hair and a red mustache. Like everyone else at Mrs.
Bell's, Al was always glad to see me when I came in. He'd say, "Well, look
who's here! It's Kay!" I'd always
tell him he was wrong, and then I'd tell
him who I was that day. Sometimes I was Polkadottie, sometimes Princess
Summerfallwinterspring, or some kind of good fairy. And sometimes I was even
just myself. Whenever I came to the store, Al would call me whoever I was the
last time I came in, but no matter what he guessed, he was always wrong.
When Mummy took me to the doughnut shop, she
would take me around to say hello to everyone. I knew Esther Rose, who washed
dishes, and Tommy Ray, who cleaned the store. I knew all the waitresses, but my
favorite was Prissy. She and Mummy were friends, and sometimes Prissy came to
birthday parties at our house.
But the best thing was watching
Daddy make doughnuts. He stood behind a window real near where people sat at
the counters, so they could watch him too. All those people had to stay on the
restaurant side of the window, though, but I could walk right back and watch
Daddy close up. He would mix the dough with his hands in a giant silver-colored
mixing bowl. And when it was mixed enough, he’d flop it onto the cloth on his work
bench, and he’d scrape the dough off his hands with his fingers. I liked the
way he sprinkled the dough with flour before he kneaded it, and then rolled the
dough out. I would watch his hands move so fast with the doughnut cutter.
Sometimes he would set cooking racks of doughnuts into the bubbling hot grease
of the fryolator. He’d use two long sticks to turn the doughnuts over in the
hot grease, and he’d do it so fast, his hands would almost fly.
Sometimes Daddy took me with him
to the back room, where the raise dough was proofing. And sometimes I went with
him to the jelly pump so he could fill the jelly doughnuts. And I liked to
watch him dip already fried raise doughnuts into the honey dip glaze. I got to
see everything.
I loved Mrs. Bell's. I loved the
small white tiles of the floor, the big round top on the mirrors on the wall for
every booth. I liked the way the counter turned a corner, and I loved the cases
for the doughnuts and all the other things Daddy made. I could look through the
glass of the case at biscuits, lemon squares, apple squares, and muffins, and I
could see the trays of doughnuts in the tall cases against the wall. My Daddy
made all of them. He was a very good baker. He made the best doughnuts in the
whole wide world.
Kate Lydon Varley
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